Ultimate Guide To Train A Puppy

Are You Ready For A Puppy

This guide is for people who are ready to be dog owners. The word ready is something people shouldn’t take lightly. Having a dog is a great responsibility and contrary to belief “getting rid of it” is a by-product of not being ready.

These are 4 areas you must be able to yes to in order to get a dog and take care of it.

1.      Am I going to exercise the dog daily?

2.      Am I going to train the dog?

3.      Do I have funding for food, water, and vet bills?

4.      Does my residence allow the breed I want?

If you can say yes to all the above congratulations! You are willing to put in the work to train the mind and body while having the finances to fund the family addition.

#1 and #2 is the reason why so many dogs are in shelters and why so many people switch dogs every few years. When you get a dog and don’t exercise it, the dog will exercise itself.

Mostly with barking excessively, whining, eventually biting, etc. Digging, jumping on furniture, or jumping on people. You name it? The list goes on and on. Make the commitment to do the bare minimum or don’t get a dog!

Now if you passed the smell test you’re ready now for the fun part!

Choose a breed

Here is a amazing list of dog breeds for you to view.  With so many different breeds to choose from I’m sure you have one in mind already. 

A big dog perhaps or maybe a small dog to fit inside the apartment building? Whatever dog you choose remember one thing. All dogs have similar requirements. You must give them exercise regardless of size.

 The best choice you can make is a dog that fits you. For example, if you are a marathon runner you may not want a lazy house dog. You should take the dog with you on runs so you may want to find a Greyhound, Doberman, or Boxer. Something that wants to run.

  charateristics of the dog boxer On the other hand, if you are lazy you should avoid dogs like that. Try to find a Mastiff or Saint Bernard. Getting a dog that needs a higher level of exercise than you can produce is the #1 cause of dog issues.

 If you really want a dog that may not be a good fit you need to be very careful and buy a dog with very lazy characteristics. Just because a dog is a breed doesn’t mean they won’t have lower energy. The chances are less likely due to body type and genetics.

Buy a Dog or Adopt a Dog

 The decision is yours, but we will give you some guidelines to follow along the way.

Body language you want

1.      Ears back

2.      Tail down

3.      Hair down

4.      Mouth open

When the ears are back the dog isn’t in an alert state of mind. The dog can be characterized as comfortable in their surroundings. Tail down is another great look. The dog isn’t trying to look big.

Hair down is another great thing to look for you. The dog isn’t scared, nervous, or shook. Mouth open is another relaxed posture that isn’t feeling threatened.

If you find a dog with these characteristics, please take him home! Good dog body language

Body language you don’t want

1.      Ears up

2.      Tail up

3.      Hair up

4.      Mouth Closed

Ears up is a very alert stance and you should proceed with caution is a dog is loose. This may happen if a dog hears something momentarily but if he is always in this posture it could be trouble.

Tail up is another language que from dogs that the dog wants to look big. Bigger is scary. Growl!!!!!

Hair up is the same as tail up. The dog is looking bigger or is really scared. Think about when all the hair on your body stands up? Scared, creeped out, weird situation that’s disturbing. Be careful bringing this guy home to your family.

Mouth closed is another level of focus and alertness you probably want to steer clear of.

Now if you want the train bite sleeves, hunting, and a dog to protect from intruders or coyotes this is the type of dog you want. Remember make sure the dog fits you.

I wouldn’t recommend this dog for owners who are inexperienced with no job for the dog to do. Recipe for disaster.

Dogs with baggage will always tell you with the body language. The worst dog to bring home are the scared dogs. They take a very long time to rehab and you should be careful about taking on that type of project. 

Take the dog home

 You’ve made the decision that you’re ready to get a dog, you found the right breed, decided to buy or adopt, and found one with tremendous body language. Guess what? Your miles ahead of everyone by just making those few simple adjustments Now let’s look at what you need to do immediately once they enter the household

  1. Control Everything
  2. Weaning from Mom
  3. House Breaking
  4. Crate Training
  5. Other Sleeping Areas
  6. Puppy Proofing House

Control Everything

This is a very sound principle in dog training. You want to take a dog leash and put it around the young pup. You don’t always have to hold it but keep a line around the dog while training.

Unless the dog is in the crate you should have something around to guide him throughout the house and while housebreaking. You will be housebreaking right away.

When he is sleep on the pillow keep a lead on him.

When you’re in the back yard and he’s using the bathroom keep a lead on the dog.

The only resistance you should have is the dog not walking on the leash if it wasn’t trained to in the first place. Be patient and gentle at this stage in the relationship. Give him little tugs until he starts to walk forward

After a few times the dog should start to get the hint. If not, don’t quit continue to meet them halfway while being reasonable. 

Weaning from Mom

Is the puppy going to cry?

 Yes Is it the end of the world? No

 The biggest test you will have is getting the dog some exercise before he goes into his resting place for the night. A tired puppy, who doesn’t have any stamina, will drop to the pillow and sleep the rest of the night.

 Don’t be a passive dog owner and let the dog cry all night. Here at Train Your Dogs we set animals and dog owners up for success.

 Keep it simple and tire the puppy out. Shouldn’t take very long and will give you and the puppy a smoother transition.

House Breaking

House Breaking should be at the top of the list when you bring home the little fella. There are a few times per day that you need to take them to the bathroom.

  • When they wake up
  • When they eat
  • When they wonder off
  • When they’re sniffing

Whenever they wake up, they need to use the bathroom. Once they go to sleep and wake up you should immediately grab the leash and walk outside.

 Dogs can only hold themselves at the age of 8 weeks to 4 months for a small amount of time. Take them right away when they wake up. 

When they eat food and drink water they can’t hold it. To keep an accident from happening soon take them out. That way they can use the bathroom in a designated area without incident.

 Whenever you play with your puppy in the living room and they take off suddenly to the kitchen don’t worry about it. They are absolutely taking a leak if you don’t follow them and take them to the nearest restroom. 

Lastly, when the dog is sniffing don’t play around. Take them out so they can sniff around and use the bathroom in a designated area. 

Remember when you have a new puppy take them out 4-5 times a day minimum sometimes more and as time passes that will decrease to 3 times. My Rottweiler at 7 years old only cares to use it twice per day.

Crate Training

Most people who live in an apartment and don’t have a big yard will find that crate training is the best option when they leave home. If you have the basic fundamentals down, you shouldn’t have any issues with crate training. Make sure you do these few things for success

  • Make sure cage fits
  • Exercise before cage
  • Leave door open when home
  • Don’t leave too much food and water at young age

The more the cage fits the more the dog treats it like a cage. I like to have a good size where they can turn around and adjust without having their body hugging the cage the entire time.

 If the cage is too big you run the risk of the dog using one side for the bathroom and the other side for food water and sleep.

 If you have a dog that will get bigger and bigger your best bet may be to buy them at they grow or get a larger size just not a 150 pound dog cage for a small puppy.

Exercise and Crate Training

Exercise will make the crate training easy or plain miserable. You ever seen that dog who is super excited and bursting out the cage? Or the dog that can’t sit still and their tail is hitting the cage violently?

 You won’t be either one of those or your dog if you do this very simple step. Exercise the dog and then put them in the cage. Walk, run or treadmill for a hour and then put them in. 

What does this do? Teach the dog to go into the cage and get some sleep. A place to recover and get food and water. Don’t make the cage about anything other than that. That’s their relaxation sanctuary.

 When you’re home leave the door open and tell the dog to stay in the cage. Works wonders for the dog knowing they won’t be busting out. Why? Because even if it were open, they still may not be coming out.

 That’s my logic. I have no idea why it works so well! Leave the door open after a long run and when you leave bathroom break and back in to rest until you get back. So many people miss this opportunity. Since you are reading this incredible guide, I doubt you will have any issues. 

Finally, if needed limit how much food and water they get when you are gone. If you are having a difficult time crate training which you shouldn’t just try to set them up for success until they are old enough to hold it.

Other Sleeping Areas

When you bring a dog into the house direct them to the sleeping area right away. This will encourage the dog to start coming in on autopilot and finding his pillow or room you want him at. 

The less direction we give the more chaotic it will become. Provide structure at the beginning and afterwards you can relax, and the dog can do whatever it wants. Long as you are giving them permission to do it beforehand.

 Dogs don’t jump on people, furniture, or couches where I live but they may be more than welcomed to do so in your house.

 Just so we have a good understanding make sure you are authorizing that movement. If the dog decides to jump anywhere, he should be met with a correction.

 If you are the one telling him to get on and off, you shouldn’t have any issues with behavior down the road. The reason why people get caught up is because the dogs feel like that’s their call. Make sure it is clear who is calling the shots.

Exercise Schedule

The puppy should follow the exact guidelines as adult dogs.

 The question everyone wants to know is how much? I don’t know how much, and you don’t either. The only one who knows is the dog! 

Look at the dog all the time when exercising and start timing when they are losing their explosiveness.

 For example, when walking my dog 45 minutes in I can feel her slowing down a whole lot. The run it is around 20 minutes that we decrease the pace. And on the treadmill about an hour. 

That not all folks! When you come home how is the behavior? If the dog is passed out for the whole day you probably did well. 2 days you went overboard lol.

 Seriously, if the dog is running around and still acting crazy be honest. You need to exercise that dog way more than you just did. Follow that rule of thumb and you should always exercise them enough. 

Remember look at the dog for how much. You can’t exercise them enough and they are still acting the same. Doesn’t make any sense.

How to correct a puppy

The same way you would correct any dog. The only difference is that you would start off much gentler. The goal is still the same and that’s to get the dogs attention and stop what they are doing to sit down or lay down.

 Anything outside of that and I have no idea what you’re doing. Let the dog’s behavior determine if you need a little more strength due to them not responding. Same way you would with a big dog.

 What you want to avoid is coming in very powerful and making the dog nervous, scared, peeing on themselves. There is no reason for that. Come in very gentle and increase if needed. 

Follow this guideline for puppies and adult dogs.

  • Verbal
  • Light correction
  • Medium correction
  • Strong correction

If you’re consistent as you should be you will find that you are always in the verbal area. Physical corrections are few and far in between when you exercise and are consistent with your timing and enforcement of the rules.

 There are a few videos at the end of this blog post you should check out 

Who shouldn’t get a dog?

There are a few people

  1. Don’t want to exercise
  2. Don’t want to train
  3. Allergic to corrections

If you don’t want to exercise the dog just don’t get one. EVER

 That’s one of the main problems everyone has. Whenever people want to tell me about their issues with the dog, we always can make one connection consistently. The less exercise the more issues. The more exercise the less issues. EVERY TIME. 

Next is that you don’t want to train them. There must be a point in time when you get the dog and they go through the boot camp or rules phase. At this time, you will be saying no or stop a lot but as time passes you will almost never say it. 

Correcting the dog isn’t bad unless you don’t do it. It is natural in a sense that dogs to it among each other and always will. You don’t want to impose yourself so just follow the guidelines. Correct enough to get the attention and move forward. We have a corrections course you may find interesting. 

You can get a dog but be prepared for a long miserable ride. Make the commitment to exercise, train, and correction bad behavior and watch how beautiful the relationship between humans and dogs were always meant to be. 

If you like this post make sure to comment any questions you may have about the post.